World Championships 2016, Paris

More than 500 competative climbers all over the world, over 20.000 spectators and 5 days of comptition in the prestigious AccorHotels Arena in Paris, that is in short how the biggest climbing event in the world looks like. Four years ago the World Championships were held in this Arena as well, and the routes, atmosphere and videos of that championships overwhelmed me. From that moment I knew: if I ever get the opportunity, I will grab it with two hands. This year, that time had come and on Tuesday the 13th I found myself in Paris.

These world championships were my first encounter with an international sportsclimbing competition. For this fact, as well as for the fact that I did not had the chance to train a lot before the competition, I setted my expectations on zero and promised myself to just experience and enjoy my debut in the international competitions.

After arriving at the campside at the border of Paris (much cheaper and less busy/noisy than an hotel, definately recommendable) with my mother, we went into the city centre to have a look at the Arena were the competition is held. On big screens at the exterior of the building the programme of the Arena was shows. Big events like concerts of the Red Hot Chili Peppers and Justin Bieber and the sportevent BNP Paribas are in this Arena. That the world championships climbing are hold in this place marks the increasing popularity of climbing.

Wednesday was the day of my qualifications. I woke up early and was surprised that I was not that much nervous. Just little after thinking about whether that was a good thing or not, the nerves arrived and at the time I was in the Arena standing in front of the big wall I was pretty stressed. There were two starting groups and both groups had to climb two qualification routes. I was in group B and had to climb the two routes on the right side. All four routes looked like real beauty's, starting on a slightly overhang wall, then continueing a heavy overhanging wall and ending in another slightly overhanging wall. Especially the heavy overhanging wall part looked like great fun to climb. After warming up and watching some other girls climbing, it was my time to climb. I tied in to the rope and while walking to the route I enjoyed the feeling of being on this podium, on which so many famous people performed. I hoped I was also able to have a nice performance here. Then I started climbing. The beginning was easier than expected and before I knew it I was in the heavy overhanging part. Surprised by how easy that first part felt I was not awake enough when I had to make a far move and before I knew it, I was back on the ground. I was frustrated that I could be so stupid and even more frustrated because I didn't wanted to be frustrated but just enjoy the competition. Luckily, there also was a second route.

The first qualification route, photo creds to Bram Berkien :-)

After a small break and encouraging some of the other Dutchies, my mindset was good again and I started focussing on the second route. Again I warmed up, this time with extra focus on far movements. Again I watched some other girls, tied in at the rope and enjoyed my walk to the route. in contrast to the first route I was not stressed anymore, but just motivated to enjoy the route. And that is exactly what I did: Fluently climbed through the first part, enjoying the holds, the moves, the atmosphere and the climbing. Then I reached the heavy overhanging wall and out of nowhere, the pump was in my arms and it felt like I couldn't do anything anymore. A kneebar made it possible to have a bit of a rest and with all willpower I had I jumped to the next hold, grasped it and made the next move. At this point the lactic acid in my arms won in from my willpower and I fell off. Happy to have climbed in this route untill I was pumped and happy that I was able to enjoy the climbing I finished the qualification round. My scores were not good enough for a place in the semi final (best 26), but I was really happy that I managed to chance my mindset after the second route. Furthermore, I learned a lot about how it is to compete in such an event and it made me very motivated to train more, harder and better so that next time I can show more!

One move before I fell in the second route, photo creds to Yanne Golev

Thursday and Friday were qualification rounds and some semifinals of the different disciplines (lead, boulder, speed and paraclimbing). As the weather was good, I made these mornings a morning run, followed by a visit in the city centre to see the things Paris offers. Saterday I was in the Arena again, for the openingsceremony and the finals of the man bouldering and women lead competition. As the flag bearer for the Netherlands, the openingsceremony was a special one for me. Together with the flag bearers from all other participating countries I marched in a line towards the podium while waving with the big flag. From the podium, I was looking straight into the Arena, which was completely filled with about 10.000 spectators. The flag bearer next to me was Niraj from Nepal, someone I got to know when I was there. It was really great seeing him again and it made us realize how small the world is.

A part of the flag bearers, photo creds Noël

After the openingsceremony, the finals started with the men boulder final. Four really diverse boulders were served to the climbers, and it was amazing to see how the men climbed them. A big congratz to Tomoa Narasaki who won this final with his elegant and spectacular climbing. Then it was time for the men visual impairment. Admirable to see how these guys can climb without seeing anything: their final route was about 7b and the old Japanese Koichiro Kobayashi almost topped the route! The women lead final was the last final on Saturday. I really hoped that the Belgian Anak would win the competition. She did really great and without having any trouble she topped the route! However, Janja also topped the route, and as she had a better score in the semi final, Anak became second. A true pity that the final route was too easy, especially because all other routes and boulders at the competition seemed to be perfect.

Janja Garnbet climbing to the titel of world champion, picture by Aniek

All the semi's and finals are streamed on the youtube channel of the IFSC, so if you were not able to see them live, get your chance and watch the competition! The spectacular routes, immensively strong climbers and the great Arena filled with people encouraging the climbers are definitely worth a look.

Now, after the competition, I am still full of motivation and energy caused by the amazing experience. Training modus is on, and hopefully I can become stronger and better than ever for the next international competition. Paris tastes like more!

Movie of my first route, film creds to Aukje :-):

Update: Outdoor climbing and Lead 2

Wow, a long period passed by since my last blog post. That can mean two things: I didn't do any climbing-related stuff or I was too busy doing climbing-related stuff to write about it. Fortunately, the second thing is the case!

So, where to start with? The outdoor Climbing season started with a couple of day trips to Comblain, in Belgium with Harald. Getting up early in the morning, waking up by the cold air while walking to the busstation, falling asleep again in the bus to the trainstation and in the train towards Eindhoven, waking up again a bit in the car towards Belgium and than getting in the Climbing mode when seeing the rocks! The winter temperatures not only caused frozen hands and feet, but also great friction. This made the two daytrips perfect and I managed to climb two 7c's and some other routes pretty easily. Then I started projecting in an 8a, but there was not enough time to finish it.

Then Noel and me went on a trip to Spain, where we did a lot of walking and some Climbing. It was a really nice relaxed holiday, great to relax after a busy period on university for both of us.

Some cool roof climbing in Spain

A three-day trip to the Frankenjura with José was my first time in the Frankenjura and the first time projecting a route outdoors. Thanks to José it was actually very motivating instead of boring and it made me climb my first 7c+! The beautiful landscape and great rocks as well as some unifinished 8a's makes me very motivated to go back to the Frankenjura as soon as possible! Click >>here<< for the link to the film of the 7c+. To get more used to trad Climbing so that I wouldn't be completely stuck with nuts and friends in Wales during the WICM (Women's Internation Climbers Meet, more about it below), I made two trips to Ettringen. One with Ibex, which was great to practise trad Climbing again, and one trip with Harald and Kees. Although Harald and Kees both have children, they keep on Climbing hard stuff, I really have a lot of respect for these two men! Although it has been raining all night, we found a piece of rock that was dry enough to climb on. After Climbing several routes, my eye fell on a beautifull small fingercrack, with left of it an arrete. Harald saw the beauty of it as well, and immediately made it a toprope. After seeing him trying, I tried one time on toprope as well. After working it out one time, the movements felt solid and I decided to give it a go on the lead. Having all my trust in my shoes standing on pretty much nothing in the first half of the route(without advertising, this is why I really love the trust that the Anasazi wms shoes give me) and with some nerves in the second half of the route, I topped it! Dance2techno, my first 7c trad! Later it turned out to be the second free ascent of the route, and the first female ascent. Amazing :D

Being creative with nuts in Ettringen.

With a 7c trad in my pocket I went with some more trust in trad Climbing to the WICM in Wales: a week-long trad Climbing meet with only women from all around the world. The meet took place in Llanberis, Wales (UK). After arriving Sunday early morning, I drove together with someone from Lutvia and a Brittish host climber to the hut in the Llanberis pass. There we met two other early birds: Francie from Germany and Chloe from Ireland. There were also some more host climbers and seeing the rocks outside, we decided to get out and get Climbing. Together with Chloe I climbed a nice 3 pitches long route. At the end of the route we got to meet the typical Welsh weather: rain. Soaked we arrived back at the hut, in which in the meanwhile more women had arrived. The rest of the evening was full with having nice chats with everyone. The next days were filled with Climbing, Climbing and more Climbing. I climbed on seacliffs, climbed on the Slates, climbed in the pass, climbed in the rain, climbed in the Sunshine, did some bouldering, did some singlepitch, did lots of multipitch and all of this in trad. Got the chance to climb with amazing people, climbed classic lines and had tons of fun. On the last day I decided to give the famous route Strawberries a go (E7 6b), but not taking a proper look in the guidebook in advantage made me ending up in Dream Topping(E7 7a). Oops... Managed to make all moves but felt too tired to climb it in one go. All together, I fell in love with the trad Climbing in Wales and definetely want to go back there soon! Also, it was a great experience to climb with so many enthousiastic female climbers. It was an unforgettable week! A more detailed story will come later.

Trying hard in dream topping

The day before leaving to the UK was the second round of the National Lead Climbing competition. Curious about how strong everyone (including myself) would be, I went to Amsterdam. The routesetter made a lot of work of the routesetting, and the routes turned out to be very nice. The Climbing went well and together with Nikki I topped both qualifications. The final route looked harder, but followed a nice line through the overhang. A far dynamic movement pushed me out of my comfort zone, which made holding it giving a great feeling. Forgetting to clip quickdraws costed more strength than necessary and being pumped I fell out the route when I was in the roof. Nikki managed to climb 7 moves further, which made her the winner of that day, me second and Lynn (falling 8 hold below me) 3rd.


At the beginning of the final route

So, what is next? The summer holidays are almost there, meaning time for a trip to the Frankenjura again, doing alpine, trad and sports Climbing in the Alps and maybe a visit to Wales. For this moment I am desperately writing a thesis proposal and looking forward to the summer holidays!

NSK Lead 2016

Last Saturday the Climbing students were competing with and against each other to fight out who would be crowned for the best male and female student climber of the Netherlands! Besides this it is also every year a big competition which SAC has the strongest climbers. The last few years the GSAC (Groningen Student Alpine Club) took that price but I hoped that this year Ibex was ready to take it over. There also were some side-events like blind Climbing, dyno contest, deadhang contest and topo guess contest.

Being together with 99 other students makes this competition one of the best of the year: having fun is most important, besides Climbing and the big party afterwards. The qualification round existed of about 20 routes of all different levels so that everyone can climb at his/her maximum. The routes were fun and diverse, even as the side events. Iris Straatsma was besides my biggest concurrent also my buddy and together we won the blind Climbing side event: I was Climbing blinded and Iris gave the perfect tips to reach the top as fast as possible. Together we ended up with the highest score in the qualification round, and also the final didn't made a distinction between us because we both topped the route. So the final was promised to be exciting!

The route looked very nice, many big (but bad?) holds, small crimps and all holds visually very nice positioned. Psyched to climb it! The waiting in the isolation (I had to climb last) didn't took long, which made me quite nervous: why was everyone falling so fast? Then it was already my turn to climb. The beginning went easy, some nice balancy shoulder moves and then from a big donut hold to another, even bigger, donut hold. Ouch, the first one was a sloper. And where were the footholds? I began to understand why the others fell so early. I hesitated, chalked my hands, hesitated again, putted my feet completely to the left and then went for the next donut. Ouch, also a sloper! Sometimes Climbing is easy: just hold on. So I did, fighting my way up the route. I loved the movements, I loved getting pumped and being able to shake it away, I loved the small crimps at the end of the route which were just big enough to hold on to even while being pumped and I loved the public going crazy after topping the route. Yeahh! Dutch Student Champion 2016!

Picture made by Menno Visser

Pieter van Loon, my training partner last year, did a perfect performance during the semi finals: Climbing in his pyjama he reached the top of the semi final. I really hoped he would do the same in the final so that we would become both Dutch Student Champion. The men's final was tough, very tough but Pieter showed his strength and managed to climb further than all other men and also crowned himself as Dutch Student Champion 2016!

But the competition was not completely over yet: in order to get our flag back, we (the ibex board) had to perform a dance act, even as the ESAC and the TSAC. The one who had the best performance, got their flag back. We choosed the number deceptacon - le tigre, and did the associated dance. Thanks to our secret dancing talents we won and got our flag back! Unfortunately we didn't managed to steal theirs, this honour is for the ZeeSAC.

All together it was a great event!

NK Lead 2015

Placed 2nd for the nationals comes with expectations. Not only from myself, but also from others. Dutch Climbing site Siked saw me a as the favorite for the 2nd place (reference)and friends also expected something of me... This made me pretty nervous the week before.

On the big day itself I wasn't nervous anymore. The route looked good and I felt strong, not just physisical but even more mentally. After waiting for some time in the isolation it was my time to climb. I didn't wanted to make any mistakes, but already in the very beginning I made a small mistake: I made an a little bit too small jump to the next hold, which almost made me fall. Luckily I recovered and the rest of the route I climbed on a very safe modus. All the holds were better than expected and without having troubles I climbed up to the upper part. Here was a small trick: on the wall was written in small letters "secret hold to the left" and after looking twice I found the secret hold. From on that point it was a small bouldery passage to the top, and with a huge crowd all encouraging me I clipped the topquickdraw!

Yihaa! Nikki topped as well, but faster which makes her Dutch Champion and me a very happy best of the losers :D

In case you missed it: hereby the livestream to look back. My moment is fame starts at 58:53

NJK 2015

Last Sunday the Dutch Youth Lead Championships were held in Rock Steady, Bussum. Because I am getting old, this would be my last youth competition, which I was willing to win!

But without a good warming up you don't get there, so the Friday evening before I started with a 21 hours long adventure race. In a team of 4 we runned, mountainbiked, kanoed, orientated and navigated our way through the surroundings of Wageningen. Despite all the rainfall we arrived Saterday evening at the finish. Tired, but satisfied. And in my case: with my feet hurting like hell. Because of all the rain, my feet were wet all 21 hours long, which resulted in awfully looking and hurting feet.

Trying to keep on smiling in the last hours of the race

Back home I felt like I could sleep for ages (untill a nice person kisses me awake), but luckily I woke up the Sunday morning already. I was impressed by how much better my body felt after just 7 hours of sleep. There wasn't more time to rest, because I had to defend my titel of Dutch Youth Champion!

After arriving in the gym it was time to wait for hours in a crowded and noisy isolation. Not really what you want after a 21 hours adventure race and with a sleepy body I had to climb the semi final. And the climbing went horrible! My feet were shaking the whole time, I didn't looked good at the route so that I clipped the quickdraws at the most energy demanding points and I felt like a potato bag. But even though the climbing went horrible, I was placed 1st for the finals!

Again, it was time to wait for hours. But this time the poffertjes plate was free and there was no one taking care of it. So together with Judith (Meskers) we made some delicious poffertjes. Besides that it was a good dinner, it was also warm and most of all a lot of fun. This made the time flying away and then the moment was there that I had to climb the final route. It wasn't that hard, until a certain point with a module where my hand slipped off. A little bit pissed on myself that I wasn't pumped yet I fell off the route. No reason to be pissed though, I became 1st!

I am now 3 times consecutively DUTCH YOUTH CHAMPION!

Lead 4 - I-VY Sittard

The last qualification round for the nationals was last Sunday, so it is clear now who are going to compete at the national championships.

The last qualification in I-VY was an good one. The routes looked cool and the participant list promised an exciting competition. A good last test for the nationals!

The first qualification was a not so hard route which was topped by almost everyone. The second route was harder, but even this route was topped by 8 participants (including me).

The final route was going straight through the roof, on big holds which looked better than they actually were. I fighted up untill the very last meter, where I didn't knew what to do next and fell off the route. Enough for the second place, which made me placed second for the National Championships, 28 November @ De Klimmuur Centraal Amsterdam :-D Make sure you are there to encourage me :-). Tickets could be bought via the NKBV.

At the end of the day a little girl came to me to ask my signature. Yeahhh I am getting famous :D

Youth lead 3 - Monte Cervino

Already some time ago the youth lead 3 was held in Monte Cervino. Referring to the blogpost before this one about good combinations: the day before the competition Noël and me went to Spaarnwoude to enjoy the beautiful weather and the 'rocks'. In the beginning I had to get used to all the small crimpers and sharp pockets again and struggled in the 6b's. But ones I was used to it the 7c went down almost as easy as the 6a's earlier that day :)

In the evening we drove to Monte Cervino and slept there.

On Sunday it was very crowded around Monte Cervino. Beside the climbing competition there were several other competitions and there was a big outdoor event. The qualification routes weren't that hard and I topped both. Also the final route looked pretty easy, so my goal was to get for today the maximum score of 3 tops. After waiting a long, long time in the isolation, it was time for my 5 minutes of fame. The final routes appeared to be even easier than the second qualification and without any trouble I topped. Yihaa!

Good combinations: Les 12 heures de Durnal & Youth lead 2

Some people know me for doing 'stupid' combinations. For example the National Youth Championships the day after the BOTS (a 21 hours long adventure race). I wouldn't call these combinations stupid, but rather: good working combinations. The hard activity on the first day makes me satisfied and the second day I am tired so that my expectations are low. This results in a competition with a low stress-factor and - as it turns - good results.

Last weekend was again a good example. On Saturday Eli and me accepted the challenge "Les 12 heures de Durnal", in which you have to climb for 12 hours (no shit) and try to make as many attitude meters as possible. Our goal was to make fun and to try to reach the 1000 meters. The first goal was definitely achieved, the second goal just missed by 30 meters.

After the BBQ we went to the climbing gym Yellow Stone in Roosendaal, where Sunday the Youth Lead 2 was hold. After asking if it was allowed to put our tent next to the gym the staff laughed at us and said that it was no problem at all (one of the guys also slept in his van next to the gym). Climbers are great people :-)

Sundaymorning everyone was jealous of us, not having to wake up early and not having to travel to the gym this morning. The qualification routes were looking fun and not too hard and without having too much trouble I topped both. In the afternoon I started to feel the day before and in the isolation I fell asleep. This turned out to be a perfect power nap and the final route went good although I didn't felt that strong. Thirst place!

Lead 3, Monte Cervino Bergschenhoek

Last weekend was the Lead 3 in Monte Cervino, Bergschenhoek. I was looking forward to this competition, not only because I like their routes most times, but even more to see everone again after the summer holiday.

The summer holiday was great. Not many hard routes were done, but the hikes, bouldering, multipitches and just being in the mountains for five weeks made it a perfect holiday. Other good news is that I got my propedeuse, which proves that it is possible to manage training, being a board member and university.

Back to the competition, after arriving in Monte Cervino I felt very excited, happy to see everyone and I was really looking forward to climb. It was a pity when I saw that the first qualification route was not overhanging, with lots of small crimpers. Completely not my style. I tried to think back to some of last summer's multipitches, in which were also many small crimps. I also climbed those, so why not this route? Still not really convinced, but having a bit more trust in myself, I stepped in the route. I was crawling on the wall very slowly, close to falling many times. With only 13 seconds (of 8 minutes) left on the clock I clipped the top quickdraw. Yihea!
The second route was more made for me, cruising through the overhang with positive holds and not too long moves. I fell in the end because I didn't really saw where to go. In the second place I went to the finals.
Ending in a high place after the qualifications always makes me nervous. I want to keep that high place but there is more to loose. This time was no exception. Being nervous makes me look at routes in a way that I only see problems. "Oh Noo! So long moves, I don't know if I can clip the quickdraw from there... What if that hold is bad?" This makes me way less motivated to climb the route. So when I stepped in the route I was scared of falling around the second quickdraw, where was a long move from two underclings to a hold on a module. Arriving at that point I decided that jumping is better that doubting and I suprised myself with a jump. After succesfully passing this point I felt more relaxed and I was way more confident. Climbing and jumping through the route I ended up pumped at the end of the overhanging part. With no more force to hold the grips, I fell. Enough to keep my second place!

I am very happy that it was possible to change my static climbing style into a more dynamic style and I am very psyched to get even more dynamic, faster and stronger :D

Training modus is on for the NK!

Lead 2

After a intense period at the university I didn't had that much time to train, which made me feel quite insecure about the Lead 2. Am I still good enough to reach the finals? How is it with my strength and endurance? With all those questions in my head I went to Mountain Network Amsterdam, where the competition was hold.

I don't know what exactly happened there. Maybe it was magic, maybe I am just stronger than I thought I am, but suddenly the climbing went great! The first qualification wasn't that hard so - as most other girls - I topped that one. The second route looked way harder and more dynamic. Not really my style but I made the best of it and really enjoyed the route. Falling high up in the route made me secure for a place in the finals.
The final route was a long route through the overhang. No far moves, new very grippy holds and movements which fit me pretty good. Perfect! After the overhanging part my foothook slipped off which made me come back to the ground. But I felt really happy with my performance and the 2nd place!

Results:
Woman:
1. Nikki van Bergen
2. Aniek Lith
3. Eva Vink

Men:
1. Tim Reuser
2. Mark Brand
3. Casper ten Slijthof

NSK 2015

Last weekend the National Student Championships (NSK) sports climbing were hold in Eindhoven. The really nice routes, all the happy, enthousiastic students and the big prizes contributed something which was a great event!

In the qualification round there were 22 routes, from level 4 up to a 7b. For every route you got 1 try and your best 4 routes counts for the score. By onsighting the 7b I managed to get easily in first place to the semi-finals.
Besides climbing there were also some side-events. One of them was coloring a drawing, so at one moment you saw all the tough climbers painting :) Other side-events were figure of 8, dynamic quickdraw and climbing in pairs. Although I was pretty horrible in them, they were very funny.

The semi-final was a pink route through the roof, it didn't looked so difficult and without any trouble I climbed it, as 4 others did. Hopefully they made the finals a bit harder!

And they did! There were some nice shaped holds in the route which I didn't knew before. I thought they were quite OK, but it turned out to be horrible slopers. After dragging myself through that sloper section my right arm was so pumped that I fell off the next hold.

This was enough for the first place! They made an awesome podium with for numbers 2 and 3 a big ball to sit on and for the number 1 a hanging chair :)

Looking forward already to the next NSK!

Lead 1, Nieuwegein

*English below*

De kop is eraf! Allereerst die van de (chocolade) paashaas in Odenwald, die een val van een rotsblok niet overleefde. Vervolgens ook die van het nationale lead seizoen, afgelopen zondag in Nieuwegein!

De paasdagen dus doorgebracht in Odenwald, Duitsland. Een prachtige omgeving met veel verschillende klimmogelijkheden. Helaas regende het de eerste dag maar de twee daaropvolgende dagen heerlijk geboulderd en trad geklommen. Conclusies die getrokken konden worden na dit weekend: een paashaas kan beter niet van een rots'glijbaan' naar beneden, van een oud matras kan je prima crashpads maken en van paaseitjes een standplaats!

Bij de eerste lead westrijd in Nieuwegein was het prachtig weer buiten, wat ik niet kon weerstaan. Op de fiets naar de klimhal dus! Na 50 km had ik een goede warming-up achter de rug en stond ik in de klimhal. De bouwers hadden mooie routes gebouwd en het klimmen ging lekker. In de finaleroute verloor ik halverwege echter mijn concentratie, waarna ik uit de route viel. Zonde maar tevreden over het algemene klimmen die dag.




The head is off! First the one of the (chocolate) easter bunny in Odenwald, who didn't survived a fall from a rock. Later also that of the national lead season, last sunday in Nieuwegein!
So we spent the easter days in Odenwald, Germany. A beautiful area with many different climbing opportunities. Unfortunately it rained the first day but the next two days where full of nice bouldering and trad climbing. Conclusions that could be drawn after this weekend: an easter bunny could better not been thrown down from a rock slide, from an old mattress you could make a nice crashpad and from easter eggs a anchor!
During the first lead competition in Nieuwegein the weather was beautiful outside, which I couldn't resist.So going by bike to the gym!After 50 km I've had a good warming-up and arrived in the gym. The routesetters did a really good job by making nice routes and my cimbing went well. Unfortunately I lost my concentration in the finals, which made me fall. That was a pitty, but I am satisfied about the general day :)

NJK Lead 2014

Na een periode van veel roeien, wennen aan het studentenleven en keuzes maken besloot ik dat het weer tijd werd om hard te gaan trainen om mijn titel Nederlands jeugd kampioen van vorig jaar te verdedigen. Door twee keer in de week op de fiets te gaan naar de klimhal in Arnhem (25 km heen, 25 terug), goede trainingen met Pieter van Loon en uiteraard veel plezier in het klimmen voelde ik mijn vorm snel vooruit gaan. Conditie, kracht, weerstand: het werd allemaal beter en beter, maar het NJK kwam angstaanjagend snel dichterbij. En dan nog iets: de twee dagen voor het NJK was de BOTS (Battle of the SAC's (Studenten Alpen Clubs): een 21 uur durende adventure race in een team van 4 personen. Zou het lukken om op tijd topfit te worden voor het NJK, en heb ik na de BOTS nog genoeg energie over?

De week voor het NJK was de Lead climb-off, de laatste kwalificatiemogelijkheid voor het NK (volwassenen). Als het NJK dan niks zou worden, had ik dan hopelijk nog het NK om te knallen.
Helaas, het liep anders. De eerste route van de climb off ging makkelijk en vormde geen problemen, in de 2e route echter ging er iets mis. Wat er precies gebeurde weet ik niet precies, maar het komt erop neer dat ik in het begin van de route eruit viel. Geen NK dit jaar. Slik.

Dan maar het NJK proberen te knallen. Toen ik zachtjes opperde dat ik tijdens de BOTS dus misschien een beetje rustig aan zou gaan doen werd ik keihard uitgelachen door mijn teammaatjes. Blijkbaar een onmogelijke combinatie die 2. Een weg terug was er echter niet meer, dus de vrijdagavond voor het NJK stonden we met ons team (4 sportieve, sterke en gezellige meiden) op de middencircel van een voetbalveld, voorovergebogen over een kaart en kompas, om te kijken wat het eerste punt was waar we heen moesten rennen. De rest van de avond, nacht, en de daarop volgende dag hebben we gemountainbiked door bossen en steden, gerend, gekanoed door de grachten van Amersfoort, gewandeld tussen de koeien en uiteraard ook heel veel plezier gemaakt. Zaterdag om 7 uur 's avonds kwamen we moe maar voldaan bij de finish aan. Naast dat we het gezelligste vrouwenteam waren, bleken we ook nog eens het beste vrouwenteam te zijn!

Nog diezelfde avond reden mijn vader en ik naar Sittard, om daar zo'n 7 uur in coma te liggen en de volgende dag nog verbazingwekkend wakker te zijn. In de isolatie aangekomen was daar gelukkig Aukje, die mijn schouders (die stiekem toch wel een beetje stijf waren geworden) even los te masseren. De halve finaleroute ging best oke, op het einde was ik even uit mijn concentratie waardoor ik net niet de route, als 2de door naar de finale.

De finaleroute ging door de mooie overhang in Sittard, precies waar ik op gehoopt had! In de isolatie moest ik echter weer lang wachter, waardoor de wedstrijdadrenaline vrij snel uit mijn lichaam verdween en ik toch wel wat vermoeidheid begon te voelen. Naarmate de isolatie steeds leger werd en het moment van klimmen steeds dichterbij kwam, kwamen ook de zenuwen weer terug, samen met wat adrenaline. Nog even een handjevol krachtvoer (lees: rozijnen :D ) naar binnen gewerkt en ik was er klaar voor! Eenmaal in de finaleroute bleken alle grepen een stuk beter te zijn dan dat ik had ingelezen, de route liep als een trein en voordat ik het wist was ik de overhang uit en hoefde ik mij alleen nog maar aan wat kleine randjes omhoog te sleuren naar de eindgreep toe. Nog niet beseffend wat dit precies inhield klipte ik het laatste setje en kwam wat verdwaasd beneden. Inmiddels (een dag later) is het besef gekomen: Nederlands Jeugd Kampioen Lead 2014!

Nu kijken hoeveel sterker ik nog kan worden, om dan dit jaar nog te knallen bij het Nederlands studenten kampioenschap (NSK) Boulder en bij het drytoolevent! Meer foto's volgen later.

Jeugd Lead 2

Na een zomer vol rotsklimmen, werken, routes bouwen en nog een beetje trainen, was het afgelopen weekend weer eens tijd om mijn krachten te testen in een wedstrijdje: de jeugd lead 2 in Monte Cervino.

Er had zich een recordaantal deelnemers ingeschreven voor deze wedstrijd. Een goed teken voor de wedstrijdsport!

De eerste kwalificatieroute was een continue route op de hoofdwand. Zonder problemen wist ik hem te toppen. Ook de 2de kwali, door het dak, was geen probleem en zodoende ging ik met 2 tops door naar de finale.

De finaleroute zat niet, zoals ik had verwacht en gehoopt, op de hoofdwand maar op een wand waar stukjes dak en plaat elkaar afwisselden. Hier was een tricky route ingeschroefd, vol met randjes. Met subtiel klimwerk klom ik lekker door, totdat ik bovenin een voettreedje miste en de route uit viel. Zonde, maar de eerste plaats was binnen!

Jeugd Lead 1, Roosendaal

Jaaaa! Ook het lead seizoen is gestart!

Al een paar maanden voel ik mij steeds sterker worden in routes en ik begon steeds meer uit te kijken naar het lead seizoen om te kijken hoe mijn vorm er in wedstrijden voor staat. Dit was (bijna) net zo sterk als ik had gedacht!

Beide kwalificatieroutes wist ik zonder veel moeite uit te klimmen, waarna ik (als enige met 2 Tops) doorging naar de finale. De finaleroute was een grijze route, een kleur die bijna niet te onderscheiden was van de blauwe en zwarte routes die op dezelfde wand zaten. Na 2 uur in de isolatie gezeten te hebben mocht ik eindelijk de route klimmen. Het voelde net zoals in de kwalificaties sterk en zeker, tot ik bij een tamelijk verre pas naar een sloper kwam. Na even gezocht te hebben of er een manier was om een gewaagde sprong te ontlopen waagde ik mij toch maar aan een sprong naar de sloper, die ik helaas net niet wist te houden.

Kortom: mijn vorm is zeker in orde, maar er is gelukkig ook nog genoeg (dynamischer worden, nóg sterker worden, sneller klimmen, ...) om aan te werken dit seizoen.

Dit was voorlopig de laatste wedstrijd. De focus ligt nu even op het eindexamen en daarna lekker buiten klimmen. Na de zomervakantie verder met de wedstrijden, maar eerst nog even hard verder trainen om lekker harde dingen te kunnen crushen deze zomer :-D

Jeugd lead open

Afgelopen zaterdag was in Mountain Network Amsterdam een nieuwe wedstrijd: de jeugd lead open. Open omdat deelnemers van alle nationaliteiten mee mochten doen. Helaas waren er uiteindelijk alleen maar Nederlandse deelnemers, maar desalniettemin was een een erg geslaagde wedstrijd!

Anders dan bij de nationale lead wedstrijden had je hier zo'n 15 kwalificatieroutes. Een paar op de voorklimwand, het grootste gedeelte toprope. Elke route was opgedeeld in verschillende zones, voor elke zone kon je punten halen. De 3 routes waarin je het hoogste aantal punten gehaald had, telden voor je eindscore. Vervolgens gaan de beste 6 van elke categorie door naar de finale.

De kwalificaties gingen wel lekker, 2x een 6c getopt en 1 7a+. Verder nog een 7c geprobeerd maar door een inschattingsfout lag ik na 2 meter klimmen al uit de route. Maakt niet uit, als eerste door naar de finale!

De finaleroute was een route door de lichte overhang met heel veel randjes. Het niveau bleek 7a+ te zijn en ik wist hem dan ook gemakkelijk uit te klimmen, wat een mooie eerste plaats opleverde.

Een goed begin van het nieuwe leadseizoen!

Lead 3, Monte Cervino

Alweer een tijdje terug was de derde Lead wedstrijd in Monte Cervino, dit was de laatste kwalificatie voor het NK (of je moet je nog via de climb-offs kwalificeren). Gezien ik er maar 2 had meegedaan en ze alledrie meetellen, besloot ik om maar effe keihard te gaan knallen deze wedstrijd.

De kwalificaties gingen goed en voelden sterk en zeker. Ik mocht als derde door naar de finale, hopen dat ik die plaats kan vasthouden!
1e kwali

2e kwali

Als derde doorgaan naar de finale betekende niet alleen lang wachten in de iso, maar ook hoge verwachtingen bij mijzelf. De finaleroute zag er echter niet zo tof uit met wat verdere passen en weinig voettreedjes om dingen op te lossen. Het was inderdaad al meteen springen naar de eerste greep, die gelukkig wel goed was. Toen een paar passen lekker kunnen maken (misschien valt de route toch nog mee...) om vervolgens te strandden bij een verre pas waar ik uiteindelijk zonder teveel te twijfelen naar een klein randje sprong. Deze hield ik niet en dat was het.
Niet verzuurt of zelfs maar moe...
finale


Uiteindelijk 7e geworden, niet goed genoeg om door te gaan naar het NK, dus dan maar proberen via de climb-offs!
Verder wel erg tevreden; de twee keer dat ik meedeed aan de volwassenen wedstrijden toch mooi in de finale gekomen en het klimmen voelde helemaal niet slecht. Last but not least was het ook nog eens super gezellig!