The summer holiday 2016 was characterised not just by lots of climbing but also by pushing boundaries, learning many new things and making great tours. I was so lucky to have two months of holidays, enough time to make a small trip in Europe!
Together with Noël and José, I started the holidays in the Frankenjura (Germany). A few weeks ago was my first trip to this area and I climbed my first 7c+ (more about this trip here. This time I was really motivated to climb an 8a. The first few days I used to climb a lot and get used to the pocket climbing style of the Frankenjura. I managed to sent quite some nice 7c's and a 7c+ in the second go, so decided it was time to try a 8a. José suggested Strandcafé, and on the warmest and sweaiest day of the week I gave it a go. Despite the weather it felt doable and I finished the route in my 3rd attempt. Whooo! My first 8a!
Since it didn't felt that hard, I pushed myself into an 8a+, Verbindung. This is a combination line of the 7c+ I climbed on my first Frankenjura trip and a 7c. Also this route fell down pretty easy in the 3rd attempt, so I started dreaming of an 8b. My eye fell on Riesenslalom direkt, a long route with a mono crux and a tricky end. I managed to do the mono crux pretty fast (in the second attempt),but had some trouble with the last hard move. I fell 3 times in the last part of the route, which made this route not just physically hard but also mentally. In the end I climbed it in my 6th attempt. I am very surprised and amazed that in only one week I climbed my first 8a, 8a+ and 8b!
Liebe ohne chance, 7c
After the Frankenjura Noël and me headed to Bergell (Swiss), where the NSAC camping took place. After arriving there we made the plan to climb the Badille, and we went up already the same day. We first wanted to climb the Cassin route, but people there told us it was wet. We changed our mind and focused on Another day in Paradise, but heard from many others that they also planned to do that route. Not willing to queue, we decided to climb the Nordkante. Unfortunately we went wrong somewhere and didn't reached the top, but for sure it was a nice first trip in which we learned a lot.
As the weather was good, we didn't waste time in the valley and went up again to climb the fiamma. Compared to the Badille this is just sportsclimbing multipitch and we managed to climb pretty fast.
Noël on the Badille
Since we had only a few days in Bergell, we had to drive to Courmayeur (Italy) for the CEAT camping after these two trips. In this week we went up to the Torino hut, bivouacked close to there and did some really nice trips. We started with the Tour Ronde (the rock face) with Rik and Jarron. The next day was 'restday' and we did the Entreve ridge. Then it was time for a big trip: the Diablo ridge with Court and Hans. The route definately deserved its name. The difficulty of the climbing is only 4c max, but it felt sometimes harder than the 8b in the Frankenjura, our rope got stuck everywhere and routefinding took ages. Hans and me were a bit slower than Noël and Court and it was dark when we reached the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. As we couldn't find the way down and were tired, we had a bivouac on the top. The next day we went down to Courmayeur, but in our head were still many other peaks and climbs we wanted to do. Two days later we went up again to do some more stuff. Unfortunately bad weather made us failing to climb the Dent du Géant, but we managed to climb the rock pillar le Chandelle (even though it was ice cold). High on the wishlist was the Grand Capuchin, but tiredness forced us to go back to the valley again.
Hans on the Pointe Mediane, one of the 5 towers of the Diablo Ridge
After all these adventures we continued our journey to the Ecrins (France) were some friends were staying. Here we ate a lot (all fat was gone after the mountaineering tours), slept a lot and did some sportsclimbing and long multipitches in the area. Besides climbing we went mountainbiking, rafting and canyoning. It was good fun and a relaxed two weeks to finish the holidays with.
Noël climbing the second pitch (6b+) on the Ponteil
Thanks to Noël for having all the skills and ability to enjoy all of this with me, Green Monkie : ecowear for their great organic shirts and Five Ten for their climbing shoes that are excellent for so many different kinds of climbing :D
A summary of the hardest routes I climbed:
- Riesenslalom Direkt, 8b (redpoint), Frankenjura
- Verbindung, 8a+ (redpoint), Frankenjura
- Strandcafe, 8a (redpoint), Frankenjura
- Vögeln verboten, 7c+ (2nd go), Frankenjura
- Le combat ordinaire, 7c+ (2nd go), Rue des masques
- Du cour à l'ouvrage, 7c (onsight), Mont Dauphin
- Fear Factory, 7c (2nd go), Frankenjura
- Liebe ohne chance, 7c (2nd go), Frankenjura
All other routes graded 7a or higher are on my 8a.nu account
Alpine tours and long multipitches:
- Badille (not finished, 5a+ max)
- Fiamma (via Dente par dente and the 6c on the fiamma)
- Tour Ronde (6b max)
- Entreve ridge (5a+ max)
- Diablo ridge & Mont Blanc du Tacul (4c max)
- Dent du Géant (not finished, 6a max)
- Le Chandelle (route: Bonatti-Tabou, 6b max)
- Paroi des Lys (route: Le haut dans le gaz, 7a max)
- Tête d'Aval (route: Piler Rouge Hebdo, 6b max)
- Le Ponteil (route: Rôle en dalles, 6c max)
More pictures are on my facebook via this link
Posts tonen met het label outdoor. Alle posts tonen
Posts tonen met het label outdoor. Alle posts tonen
maandag 29 augustus 2016
woensdag 22 juni 2016
Update: Outdoor climbing and Lead 2
Wow, a long period passed by since my last blog post. That can mean two things: I didn't do any climbing-related stuff or I was too busy doing climbing-related stuff to write about it. Fortunately, the second thing is the case!
So, where to start with? The outdoor Climbing season started with a couple of day trips to Comblain, in Belgium with Harald. Getting up early in the morning, waking up by the cold air while walking to the busstation, falling asleep again in the bus to the trainstation and in the train towards Eindhoven, waking up again a bit in the car towards Belgium and than getting in the Climbing mode when seeing the rocks! The winter temperatures not only caused frozen hands and feet, but also great friction. This made the two daytrips perfect and I managed to climb two 7c's and some other routes pretty easily. Then I started projecting in an 8a, but there was not enough time to finish it.
Then Noel and me went on a trip to Spain, where we did a lot of walking and some Climbing. It was a really nice relaxed holiday, great to relax after a busy period on university for both of us.
Some cool roof climbing in Spain
A three-day trip to the Frankenjura with José was my first time in the Frankenjura and the first time projecting a route outdoors. Thanks to José it was actually very motivating instead of boring and it made me climb my first 7c+! The beautiful landscape and great rocks as well as some unifinished 8a's makes me very motivated to go back to the Frankenjura as soon as possible! Click >>here<< for the link to the film of the 7c+. To get more used to trad Climbing so that I wouldn't be completely stuck with nuts and friends in Wales during the WICM (Women's Internation Climbers Meet, more about it below), I made two trips to Ettringen. One with Ibex, which was great to practise trad Climbing again, and one trip with Harald and Kees. Although Harald and Kees both have children, they keep on Climbing hard stuff, I really have a lot of respect for these two men! Although it has been raining all night, we found a piece of rock that was dry enough to climb on. After Climbing several routes, my eye fell on a beautifull small fingercrack, with left of it an arrete. Harald saw the beauty of it as well, and immediately made it a toprope. After seeing him trying, I tried one time on toprope as well. After working it out one time, the movements felt solid and I decided to give it a go on the lead. Having all my trust in my shoes standing on pretty much nothing in the first half of the route(without advertising, this is why I really love the trust that the Anasazi wms shoes give me) and with some nerves in the second half of the route, I topped it! Dance2techno, my first 7c trad! Later it turned out to be the second free ascent of the route, and the first female ascent. Amazing :D Being creative with nuts in Ettringen.
With a 7c trad in my pocket I went with some more trust in trad Climbing to the WICM in Wales: a week-long trad Climbing meet with only women from all around the world. The meet took place in Llanberis, Wales (UK). After arriving Sunday early morning, I drove together with someone from Lutvia and a Brittish host climber to the hut in the Llanberis pass. There we met two other early birds: Francie from Germany and Chloe from Ireland. There were also some more host climbers and seeing the rocks outside, we decided to get out and get Climbing. Together with Chloe I climbed a nice 3 pitches long route. At the end of the route we got to meet the typical Welsh weather: rain. Soaked we arrived back at the hut, in which in the meanwhile more women had arrived. The rest of the evening was full with having nice chats with everyone. The next days were filled with Climbing, Climbing and more Climbing. I climbed on seacliffs, climbed on the Slates, climbed in the pass, climbed in the rain, climbed in the Sunshine, did some bouldering, did some singlepitch, did lots of multipitch and all of this in trad. Got the chance to climb with amazing people, climbed classic lines and had tons of fun. On the last day I decided to give the famous route Strawberries a go (E7 6b), but not taking a proper look in the guidebook in advantage made me ending up in Dream Topping(E7 7a). Oops... Managed to make all moves but felt too tired to climb it in one go. All together, I fell in love with the trad Climbing in Wales and definetely want to go back there soon! Also, it was a great experience to climb with so many enthousiastic female climbers. It was an unforgettable week! A more detailed story will come later.
Trying hard in dream topping
The day before leaving to the UK was the second round of the National Lead Climbing competition. Curious about how strong everyone (including myself) would be, I went to Amsterdam. The routesetter made a lot of work of the routesetting, and the routes turned out to be very nice. The Climbing went well and together with Nikki I topped both qualifications. The final route looked harder, but followed a nice line through the overhang. A far dynamic movement pushed me out of my comfort zone, which made holding it giving a great feeling. Forgetting to clip quickdraws costed more strength than necessary and being pumped I fell out the route when I was in the roof. Nikki managed to climb 7 moves further, which made her the winner of that day, me second and Lynn (falling 8 hold below me) 3rd.

At the beginning of the final route
So, what is next? The summer holidays are almost there, meaning time for a trip to the Frankenjura again, doing alpine, trad and sports Climbing in the Alps and maybe a visit to Wales. For this moment I am desperately writing a thesis proposal and looking forward to the summer holidays!
So, where to start with? The outdoor Climbing season started with a couple of day trips to Comblain, in Belgium with Harald. Getting up early in the morning, waking up by the cold air while walking to the busstation, falling asleep again in the bus to the trainstation and in the train towards Eindhoven, waking up again a bit in the car towards Belgium and than getting in the Climbing mode when seeing the rocks! The winter temperatures not only caused frozen hands and feet, but also great friction. This made the two daytrips perfect and I managed to climb two 7c's and some other routes pretty easily. Then I started projecting in an 8a, but there was not enough time to finish it.
Then Noel and me went on a trip to Spain, where we did a lot of walking and some Climbing. It was a really nice relaxed holiday, great to relax after a busy period on university for both of us.
Some cool roof climbing in Spain
A three-day trip to the Frankenjura with José was my first time in the Frankenjura and the first time projecting a route outdoors. Thanks to José it was actually very motivating instead of boring and it made me climb my first 7c+! The beautiful landscape and great rocks as well as some unifinished 8a's makes me very motivated to go back to the Frankenjura as soon as possible! Click >>here<< for the link to the film of the 7c+. To get more used to trad Climbing so that I wouldn't be completely stuck with nuts and friends in Wales during the WICM (Women's Internation Climbers Meet, more about it below), I made two trips to Ettringen. One with Ibex, which was great to practise trad Climbing again, and one trip with Harald and Kees. Although Harald and Kees both have children, they keep on Climbing hard stuff, I really have a lot of respect for these two men! Although it has been raining all night, we found a piece of rock that was dry enough to climb on. After Climbing several routes, my eye fell on a beautifull small fingercrack, with left of it an arrete. Harald saw the beauty of it as well, and immediately made it a toprope. After seeing him trying, I tried one time on toprope as well. After working it out one time, the movements felt solid and I decided to give it a go on the lead. Having all my trust in my shoes standing on pretty much nothing in the first half of the route(without advertising, this is why I really love the trust that the Anasazi wms shoes give me) and with some nerves in the second half of the route, I topped it! Dance2techno, my first 7c trad! Later it turned out to be the second free ascent of the route, and the first female ascent. Amazing :D Being creative with nuts in Ettringen.
With a 7c trad in my pocket I went with some more trust in trad Climbing to the WICM in Wales: a week-long trad Climbing meet with only women from all around the world. The meet took place in Llanberis, Wales (UK). After arriving Sunday early morning, I drove together with someone from Lutvia and a Brittish host climber to the hut in the Llanberis pass. There we met two other early birds: Francie from Germany and Chloe from Ireland. There were also some more host climbers and seeing the rocks outside, we decided to get out and get Climbing. Together with Chloe I climbed a nice 3 pitches long route. At the end of the route we got to meet the typical Welsh weather: rain. Soaked we arrived back at the hut, in which in the meanwhile more women had arrived. The rest of the evening was full with having nice chats with everyone. The next days were filled with Climbing, Climbing and more Climbing. I climbed on seacliffs, climbed on the Slates, climbed in the pass, climbed in the rain, climbed in the Sunshine, did some bouldering, did some singlepitch, did lots of multipitch and all of this in trad. Got the chance to climb with amazing people, climbed classic lines and had tons of fun. On the last day I decided to give the famous route Strawberries a go (E7 6b), but not taking a proper look in the guidebook in advantage made me ending up in Dream Topping(E7 7a). Oops... Managed to make all moves but felt too tired to climb it in one go. All together, I fell in love with the trad Climbing in Wales and definetely want to go back there soon! Also, it was a great experience to climb with so many enthousiastic female climbers. It was an unforgettable week! A more detailed story will come later.
Trying hard in dream topping
The day before leaving to the UK was the second round of the National Lead Climbing competition. Curious about how strong everyone (including myself) would be, I went to Amsterdam. The routesetter made a lot of work of the routesetting, and the routes turned out to be very nice. The Climbing went well and together with Nikki I topped both qualifications. The final route looked harder, but followed a nice line through the overhang. A far dynamic movement pushed me out of my comfort zone, which made holding it giving a great feeling. Forgetting to clip quickdraws costed more strength than necessary and being pumped I fell out the route when I was in the roof. Nikki managed to climb 7 moves further, which made her the winner of that day, me second and Lynn (falling 8 hold below me) 3rd.

At the beginning of the final route
So, what is next? The summer holidays are almost there, meaning time for a trip to the Frankenjura again, doing alpine, trad and sports Climbing in the Alps and maybe a visit to Wales. For this moment I am desperately writing a thesis proposal and looking forward to the summer holidays!
maandag 14 september 2015
Good combinations: Les 12 heures de Durnal & Youth lead 2
Some people know me for doing 'stupid' combinations. For example the National Youth Championships the day after the BOTS (a 21 hours long adventure race). I wouldn't call these combinations stupid, but rather: good working combinations. The hard activity on the first day makes me satisfied and the second day I am tired so that my expectations are low. This results in a competition with a low stress-factor and - as it turns - good results.
Last weekend was again a good example. On Saturday Eli and me accepted the challenge "Les 12 heures de Durnal", in which you have to climb for 12 hours (no shit) and try to make as many attitude meters as possible. Our goal was to make fun and to try to reach the 1000 meters. The first goal was definitely achieved, the second goal just missed by 30 meters.
After the BBQ we went to the climbing gym Yellow Stone in Roosendaal, where Sunday the Youth Lead 2 was hold. After asking if it was allowed to put our tent next to the gym the staff laughed at us and said that it was no problem at all (one of the guys also slept in his van next to the gym). Climbers are great people :-)
Sundaymorning everyone was jealous of us, not having to wake up early and not having to travel to the gym this morning. The qualification routes were looking fun and not too hard and without having too much trouble I topped both. In the afternoon I started to feel the day before and in the isolation I fell asleep. This turned out to be a perfect power nap and the final route went good although I didn't felt that strong. Thirst place!

Last weekend was again a good example. On Saturday Eli and me accepted the challenge "Les 12 heures de Durnal", in which you have to climb for 12 hours (no shit) and try to make as many attitude meters as possible. Our goal was to make fun and to try to reach the 1000 meters. The first goal was definitely achieved, the second goal just missed by 30 meters.
After the BBQ we went to the climbing gym Yellow Stone in Roosendaal, where Sunday the Youth Lead 2 was hold. After asking if it was allowed to put our tent next to the gym the staff laughed at us and said that it was no problem at all (one of the guys also slept in his van next to the gym). Climbers are great people :-)
Sundaymorning everyone was jealous of us, not having to wake up early and not having to travel to the gym this morning. The qualification routes were looking fun and not too hard and without having too much trouble I topped both. In the afternoon I started to feel the day before and in the isolation I fell asleep. This turned out to be a perfect power nap and the final route went good although I didn't felt that strong. Thirst place!

donderdag 26 februari 2015
Winter in Berdorf!
All the nice outdoor climbing in Turkey, Switserland and Spain made me hungry for more, but with no more holidays on the planning for the coming period, there is no time to go far away again. Luckily there are also nice rocks pretty close to The Netherlands.
One of the most beautiful climbing spots is Berdorf, in Luxembourg. The forest there is magical and the sandstone rocks are great for climbing. So last weekend José (one of the guys I met in Turkey) and me headed to Berdorf.
After all the limestone climbing in Turkey and Spain I had to get used to sandstone again, but suprisingly that went pretty fast. I was really happy to climb in the rock again, no matter the cold (which wasn't that bad, because it created perfect friction). The first day I managed to sent Daïwel (7b+) in my second go. The next day we tried Ywene Ywene, a nice 7c+ with a lot of small crimpers. Not really my style but it was a really nice line. Unfortunately I didn't manage to climb the crux. In the night it started snowing, so no climbing on our last day. José took the quickdraws out Ywene Ywene, we enjoyed the view of Berdorf covered under snow and we drove back to The Netherlands.
One of the most beautiful climbing spots is Berdorf, in Luxembourg. The forest there is magical and the sandstone rocks are great for climbing. So last weekend José (one of the guys I met in Turkey) and me headed to Berdorf.
After all the limestone climbing in Turkey and Spain I had to get used to sandstone again, but suprisingly that went pretty fast. I was really happy to climb in the rock again, no matter the cold (which wasn't that bad, because it created perfect friction). The first day I managed to sent Daïwel (7b+) in my second go. The next day we tried Ywene Ywene, a nice 7c+ with a lot of small crimpers. Not really my style but it was a really nice line. Unfortunately I didn't manage to climb the crux. In the night it started snowing, so no climbing on our last day. José took the quickdraws out Ywene Ywene, we enjoyed the view of Berdorf covered under snow and we drove back to The Netherlands.
dinsdag 24 februari 2015
El Chorro - Spain
Two weeks after the worldcup adventure, a new trip started at the airport in Malaga. This time Noël and me exchanged the cold and wet ice for the sun, warmth and rocks of El Chorro. The first day we were not so lucky with the weather. It started raining so we decided to go to the famous cave Poema de roca. This cave has some really nice and classic routes, but unfortunately most of them are polished.
The next day we went to the sector Suizo. Also here nice routes, much less polished than in Poema de roca. After this day we were used to the rocks and ready for a multipitch. We chose Café con bourbon. Four lengths (5+, 6b+, 7a, 6c+) of beautiful climbing with huge tufa's. In the last pitch we had to fight hard against the wind, which was trying to blow us away. But we won!
Bruno likes it :)
Next day was supposed to be a rest day, but the rocks were begging to be climbed, something I couldn't resist. So in the end I did some running in the morning and some climbing in the afternoon, which made this my worst rest day ever.
Everybody told us that Makinodromo is a really nice crag with a beauty of an 8a. Exactly where I was looking for! So after my "rest" day, Noël and me made a beautiful but long walk to Makinodromo and I tried the 8a (Lourdes). It was a very long and nice route with lots of tufa's in it, lovely! Unfortunately I didn't felt strong enough to climb it.
Next day the weather was shit again, so we decided to go to the Poema de roca again to try some hard routes. In the end of the day Noël was working in a 7a+ when it got dark. In the complete darkness we had to find our way back through the forest full of owls. We left last and came back the next day as first to do a 12 pitches long multipitch (4, 6a, 6c, 6c+, 7a, 6a+, 5+, 6b, 6c+, 6a, 3, 3+), all the way up to the face of Frontales, starting right of the cave. On our way up we saw vultures making spectacular acrobatic moves in the air. As a reward we ate pancakes on the top and afterwards we started abseiling down until our rope got stuck, so I climbed the first 6c+ pitch again... This took us 40 minutes more time than expected, so in the end we were in the wall for 10 hours and we had to walk back in the dark again.
The next day our arms felt they had done something so we had a relax start of the day and climbed a little bit in the rocks above our campside (Los Encantados). Then it was time to leave again. We had a great time in El Chorro with lots of free food, meeting new people and absolutely amazing climbs!
The next day we went to the sector Suizo. Also here nice routes, much less polished than in Poema de roca. After this day we were used to the rocks and ready for a multipitch. We chose Café con bourbon. Four lengths (5+, 6b+, 7a, 6c+) of beautiful climbing with huge tufa's. In the last pitch we had to fight hard against the wind, which was trying to blow us away. But we won!
Bruno likes it :)
Next day was supposed to be a rest day, but the rocks were begging to be climbed, something I couldn't resist. So in the end I did some running in the morning and some climbing in the afternoon, which made this my worst rest day ever.
Everybody told us that Makinodromo is a really nice crag with a beauty of an 8a. Exactly where I was looking for! So after my "rest" day, Noël and me made a beautiful but long walk to Makinodromo and I tried the 8a (Lourdes). It was a very long and nice route with lots of tufa's in it, lovely! Unfortunately I didn't felt strong enough to climb it.
Next day the weather was shit again, so we decided to go to the Poema de roca again to try some hard routes. In the end of the day Noël was working in a 7a+ when it got dark. In the complete darkness we had to find our way back through the forest full of owls. We left last and came back the next day as first to do a 12 pitches long multipitch (4, 6a, 6c, 6c+, 7a, 6a+, 5+, 6b, 6c+, 6a, 3, 3+), all the way up to the face of Frontales, starting right of the cave. On our way up we saw vultures making spectacular acrobatic moves in the air. As a reward we ate pancakes on the top and afterwards we started abseiling down until our rope got stuck, so I climbed the first 6c+ pitch again... This took us 40 minutes more time than expected, so in the end we were in the wall for 10 hours and we had to walk back in the dark again.
The next day our arms felt they had done something so we had a relax start of the day and climbed a little bit in the rocks above our campside (Los Encantados). Then it was time to leave again. We had a great time in El Chorro with lots of free food, meeting new people and absolutely amazing climbs!
zondag 1 februari 2015
Worldcup ice climbing Saas Fee
My first world cup where I was not cleening the holds but climbing myself was finally there! Not, like I had always thought, in a sportclimbing competition, but instead in an iceclimbing world cup. How comes?
The Dutch ice climbing team, existing of Marianne van der Steen and Dennis van Hoek, were searching for new members of the team. After becoming second at the Dutch Drytool event (De Scottish Anna Wells became first), they asked me if I would like to join them to the worldcup Ice climbing in Saas Fee. Because I'd never done any iceclimbing we would go the week before the world cup to Kandersteg for some iceclimbing,drytooling and mixed climbing.
After this great training week we drove to Saas Fee. On our way we found a nice ice pillar next to the road, which we decided to climb (you're a climber or you're not).
In Saas Fee the NKBV arranged a luxurious 4 stars hotel for us, with wellness. So after arriving we enjoyed the wellness and in the evening we went to the registration and dinner for the worldcup.
The next day we had to be early in the isolation. After 2 hours in the isolation it was finally my time to climb. I was a bit nervous and stressed about the climbing time: only 4.30 minutes! So in the beginning I wanted to climb as fast as possible, but I didn't knew where to go: there where 2 possibilities: go to the right and climb through a big cube of ice, or go straight. The last option was quite a long move, but because it saved you a few movements (and time) I decided to go for that option. Fortunately I managed to make the long move. A few meters higher up in the route there was a steinpull (undercling) and again a long move. With not that much time on the clock left I managed to make a mantle over the steinpull but unfortunately (with no time left on the clock) my ice axe slipped off the next hold.
This brought me in a 20th place. Just missed the semi finals but still very happy with this result! Marianne did a very good job, ending in a 8th place.
But the worldcup wasn't finished yet: we also competed in speed climbing! Because I regularly run out of time in competitions and I don't have that much ice climbing experience, I was curious about how the speed climbing would go.
The first time was horrible, but every attempt I climbed almost 10 seconds faster so in the end it went pretty ok (for my standarts). Because all woman made it to the finals, I had to climb finals of speed climbing in the evening. Me in the finals of speed climbing! The biggest joke in propably my whole life! I became 18th, but it was a very nice experience though. It is also surprisingly how the speed climbing is dominated by the Russian. So in 2013 Dennis did excellent by winning the world cup speed climbing!
It was a very educational week, very much thanks to Dennis and Marianne for learning me everything and the coaching. They made me addicted to iceclimbing and I really hope I can climb more ice climbing competitions next year! :-D
The Dutch ice climbing team, existing of Marianne van der Steen and Dennis van Hoek, were searching for new members of the team. After becoming second at the Dutch Drytool event (De Scottish Anna Wells became first), they asked me if I would like to join them to the worldcup Ice climbing in Saas Fee. Because I'd never done any iceclimbing we would go the week before the world cup to Kandersteg for some iceclimbing,drytooling and mixed climbing.
Trainings week IWC Saas Fee met Aniek en Noël 2015 from Marianne van der Steen on Vimeo.
After this great training week we drove to Saas Fee. On our way we found a nice ice pillar next to the road, which we decided to climb (you're a climber or you're not).
In Saas Fee the NKBV arranged a luxurious 4 stars hotel for us, with wellness. So after arriving we enjoyed the wellness and in the evening we went to the registration and dinner for the worldcup.
The next day we had to be early in the isolation. After 2 hours in the isolation it was finally my time to climb. I was a bit nervous and stressed about the climbing time: only 4.30 minutes! So in the beginning I wanted to climb as fast as possible, but I didn't knew where to go: there where 2 possibilities: go to the right and climb through a big cube of ice, or go straight. The last option was quite a long move, but because it saved you a few movements (and time) I decided to go for that option. Fortunately I managed to make the long move. A few meters higher up in the route there was a steinpull (undercling) and again a long move. With not that much time on the clock left I managed to make a mantle over the steinpull but unfortunately (with no time left on the clock) my ice axe slipped off the next hold.
This brought me in a 20th place. Just missed the semi finals but still very happy with this result! Marianne did a very good job, ending in a 8th place.
But the worldcup wasn't finished yet: we also competed in speed climbing! Because I regularly run out of time in competitions and I don't have that much ice climbing experience, I was curious about how the speed climbing would go.
The first time was horrible, but every attempt I climbed almost 10 seconds faster so in the end it went pretty ok (for my standarts). Because all woman made it to the finals, I had to climb finals of speed climbing in the evening. Me in the finals of speed climbing! The biggest joke in propably my whole life! I became 18th, but it was a very nice experience though. It is also surprisingly how the speed climbing is dominated by the Russian. So in 2013 Dennis did excellent by winning the world cup speed climbing!
It was a very educational week, very much thanks to Dennis and Marianne for learning me everything and the coaching. They made me addicted to iceclimbing and I really hope I can climb more ice climbing competitions next year! :-D
dinsdag 13 januari 2015
Geyikbayiri
2014 was een mooi wedstrijdseizoen met als hoogtepunten Nederlands Jeugd kampioen lead en boulder en hiernaast nog een 2de plaats bij het Dutch Drytool event. Na al dit geweld op plastic werd het tijd om de rots weer eens op te zoeken, en lekker te genieten van de zon, warmte, tufa's en al het andere wat Turkije te bieden heeft!
Het werden 2 weken met inderdaad de beloofde zon, warmte en tufa's maar helaas ook met wat regenachtige dagen. Gelukkig was het erg gezellig op de camping waardoor het een zeer geslaagde vakantie was, waarin ik ook nog aardig wat mooie routes heb kunnen intikken :)
Het werden 2 weken met inderdaad de beloofde zon, warmte en tufa's maar helaas ook met wat regenachtige dagen. Gelukkig was het erg gezellig op de camping waardoor het een zeer geslaagde vakantie was, waarin ik ook nog aardig wat mooie routes heb kunnen intikken :)
vrijdag 18 januari 2013
Nepal
Van profvoetballer worden tot een 10 voor natuurkunde halen, ik heb er allemaal wel eens van gedroomd. Maar een van die dromen stond toch wel erg hoog op het lijstje, en heeft ook altijd al op het lijstje gestaan: Nepal bezoeken. Afgelopen kerstvakantie was het dan eindelijk zover: na een lange dag vliegen kwamen we in Kathmandu aan!
De dag na aankomst vertrokken we met een busje richting de Ganesh Himal, om door dat gebied een prachtige trek te maken. Gezien het daar nu ook winter is, is het er ijskoud (-25 in de nacht), maar daardoor ook helder waardoor we prachtig uitzicht hadden op het Annapurna massief, de Manaslu, de Langtang en natuurlijk de Ganesh Himal. Ik ga er niet teveel over vertellen want dan wordt dit bericht veel te lang en de foto's zeggen(denk ik) meer, maar als een paal boven water staat dat het keivet was!
Ondanks dat deze droom werkelijkheid is geworden streep ik hem niet van het lijstje, maar schuif ik hem juist nóg verder omhoog; Nepal is zeker een land om naar terug te gaan, en het liefst zo snel mogelijk!
De dag na aankomst vertrokken we met een busje richting de Ganesh Himal, om door dat gebied een prachtige trek te maken. Gezien het daar nu ook winter is, is het er ijskoud (-25 in de nacht), maar daardoor ook helder waardoor we prachtig uitzicht hadden op het Annapurna massief, de Manaslu, de Langtang en natuurlijk de Ganesh Himal. Ik ga er niet teveel over vertellen want dan wordt dit bericht veel te lang en de foto's zeggen(denk ik) meer, maar als een paal boven water staat dat het keivet was!
Ondanks dat deze droom werkelijkheid is geworden streep ik hem niet van het lijstje, maar schuif ik hem juist nóg verder omhoog; Nepal is zeker een land om naar terug te gaan, en het liefst zo snel mogelijk!
maandag 12 september 2011
Vakantie + Jeugd lead 4
De vakantie is al weer even voorbij, school al een paar weken bezig en ja, ook de klimwedstrijden zijn weer begonnen!
In de vakantie waren we als eerst 2 weken in Oostenrijk. Twee weken vol met regen, maar gelukkig ook met heel veel lol. Zeker de 2e week, waar ik curcus had in de Kaunergrathütte. Een hele leuke week waarin we veel gedaan en geleerd hebben (ondanks dat het weer soms een beetje tegenviel...).
Na de curcus gingen we meteen door naar het gebied van de Ortler, Italië. Hier zagen we voor het eerst sinds 2 weken weer zon, en wisten we weer hoe het was om met een zonnetje in je rug lekker bij een beekje een beetje te klimmen, wandelen of zwemmen. Vakantie! Na een mislukte poging om de Ortler zelf te doen (tijd niet goed ingeschat) moesten we de zon helaas weer verlaten, om terug te gaan naar het regenachtige Nederland.
Inmiddels zit ik weer helemaal in het ritme van school, klimmen en schaatsen. Gisteren was de laatste kwali voor het NJK. Het klimmen ging na de vakantie te slecht voor woorden, dus mijn verwachtingen voor deze wedstrijd waren niet zo hoog. Het doel: lol maken en proberen lekker te klimmen!
De eerste kwali-route zag er te makkelijk uit. De tweede te moeilijk. Uiteindelijk waren ze allebei super gebouwd, alle passen klopten, de goeden vielen er op 2/3 uit, de beteren kwamen hoger of topten. Zo kon iedereen tevreden zijn. Het klimmen voelde in beide kwali's zoals het hoorde, soepel, rustig en beheerst. 2x top, op naar de finale!
De finaleroute ging dan weer zoals het de afgelopen tijd ook ging. Niet geconcentreerd/gefocust. Voor mijn idee viel ik er veel te snel uit. Toch bleek dat ik het nog niet eens zo heeel slecht gedaan had; 5e.
Céline en Enya hadden allebei de finaleroute getopt. In de superfinale won Céline. Liza werd derde en Eva 4e. Het is nu trainen naar de finale, en hopelijk kan ik dan helemaal knallen!
In de vakantie waren we als eerst 2 weken in Oostenrijk. Twee weken vol met regen, maar gelukkig ook met heel veel lol. Zeker de 2e week, waar ik curcus had in de Kaunergrathütte. Een hele leuke week waarin we veel gedaan en geleerd hebben (ondanks dat het weer soms een beetje tegenviel...).
Na de curcus gingen we meteen door naar het gebied van de Ortler, Italië. Hier zagen we voor het eerst sinds 2 weken weer zon, en wisten we weer hoe het was om met een zonnetje in je rug lekker bij een beekje een beetje te klimmen, wandelen of zwemmen. Vakantie! Na een mislukte poging om de Ortler zelf te doen (tijd niet goed ingeschat) moesten we de zon helaas weer verlaten, om terug te gaan naar het regenachtige Nederland.
Inmiddels zit ik weer helemaal in het ritme van school, klimmen en schaatsen. Gisteren was de laatste kwali voor het NJK. Het klimmen ging na de vakantie te slecht voor woorden, dus mijn verwachtingen voor deze wedstrijd waren niet zo hoog. Het doel: lol maken en proberen lekker te klimmen!
De eerste kwali-route zag er te makkelijk uit. De tweede te moeilijk. Uiteindelijk waren ze allebei super gebouwd, alle passen klopten, de goeden vielen er op 2/3 uit, de beteren kwamen hoger of topten. Zo kon iedereen tevreden zijn. Het klimmen voelde in beide kwali's zoals het hoorde, soepel, rustig en beheerst. 2x top, op naar de finale!
De finaleroute ging dan weer zoals het de afgelopen tijd ook ging. Niet geconcentreerd/gefocust. Voor mijn idee viel ik er veel te snel uit. Toch bleek dat ik het nog niet eens zo heeel slecht gedaan had; 5e.
Céline en Enya hadden allebei de finaleroute getopt. In de superfinale won Céline. Liza werd derde en Eva 4e. Het is nu trainen naar de finale, en hopelijk kan ik dan helemaal knallen!
vrijdag 6 mei 2011
Jeugd Lead 2, Roosendaal & Berdorf
Vorige week zondag reed een volle auto met m'n moeder, Ben, Rosa, Tiba, ik en veel klimspullen voor de wedstrijd maar vooral ook voor Berdorf, richting Roosendaal voor de 2e jeugdlead.
De kwalificatiesroutes waren niet zo moeilijk. Samen met 6/7 anderen topte ik ze allebei. Het klimmen ging lekker en ik hoopte dat vol te houden met de finale.
De finaleroutes zag er leuk uit. Een lange route door een licht overhangende wand. Ik hoopte aardig ver te komen.
De route liep lekker, de passen waren leuk, de sfeer relaxed en de route ging zoals ingelezen.
Bij een pas waar ik niet gedacht had eruit te vallen, viel ik eruit. Balen, ik denk dat ik wel verder had kunnen komen. Maar het bleek toch goed te zijn voor een (gedeelde) 2e plek met Liza.
Na de wedstrijd reed de volle auto, deze keer met m'n moeder, Ronja, Eva, ik en veel klimspullen voor Berdorf, door naar Bollendorf (Dln). Daar stond de jeugdherberg die voor 5 dagen als hotel zou dienen.
Maandag gingen we vooral het gebiedje bekijken, veel de rots voelen en veel klimmen. De volgende dag begonnen we met wat moeilijkere routes, afgewisseld met makkelijkere. Zo bleven we de hele week doorklimmen, op woensdag een ochtendje shoppen in Echternach na.
Aan het einde van de zeer gezellige week stonden er 2 7a+'s op mijn lijstje, en een 7b second try!
Ik kan niet wachten de rots weer te voelen!
De kwalificatiesroutes waren niet zo moeilijk. Samen met 6/7 anderen topte ik ze allebei. Het klimmen ging lekker en ik hoopte dat vol te houden met de finale.
De finaleroutes zag er leuk uit. Een lange route door een licht overhangende wand. Ik hoopte aardig ver te komen.
De route liep lekker, de passen waren leuk, de sfeer relaxed en de route ging zoals ingelezen.
Bij een pas waar ik niet gedacht had eruit te vallen, viel ik eruit. Balen, ik denk dat ik wel verder had kunnen komen. Maar het bleek toch goed te zijn voor een (gedeelde) 2e plek met Liza.
Na de wedstrijd reed de volle auto, deze keer met m'n moeder, Ronja, Eva, ik en veel klimspullen voor Berdorf, door naar Bollendorf (Dln). Daar stond de jeugdherberg die voor 5 dagen als hotel zou dienen.
Maandag gingen we vooral het gebiedje bekijken, veel de rots voelen en veel klimmen. De volgende dag begonnen we met wat moeilijkere routes, afgewisseld met makkelijkere. Zo bleven we de hele week doorklimmen, op woensdag een ochtendje shoppen in Echternach na.
Aan het einde van de zeer gezellige week stonden er 2 7a+'s op mijn lijstje, en een 7b second try!
Ik kan niet wachten de rots weer te voelen!
dinsdag 26 april 2011
Freyr
Al een tijdje geleden was ik door Marjolein gevraagd om mee te gaan op instructieweekend in Freyr. Uiteraard ja gezegd en dat bleek een goede keus te zijn.
Vorig weekend gingen we met de auto op weg, om het hele weekend met een heerlijk zonnetje in de rug veel te klimmen, en vooral ook veel te leren/herhalen. Standplaats bouwen, abseilen vanaf een haak, takel maken... :)
En het belangrijkste; het was erg gezellig!
Daarna was ik wel even een paar daagjes ziek, maar gelukkig kon ik afgelopen weekend wel weer mee met de WATT, naar Freyr.
Met Pasen was ik dus weer in Freyr te vinden. Deze keer niet in een meerdere touwenlengte of iets, maar in een 7a+. Samen met Eva uitgewerkt, echt supergaaf.
De rots blijft opgezocht worden (zeker met dit heerlijke weer); volgende week met Eva en Ronja naar Berdorf!! :D Kan haast niet wachten....
Vorig weekend gingen we met de auto op weg, om het hele weekend met een heerlijk zonnetje in de rug veel te klimmen, en vooral ook veel te leren/herhalen. Standplaats bouwen, abseilen vanaf een haak, takel maken... :)
En het belangrijkste; het was erg gezellig!
Daarna was ik wel even een paar daagjes ziek, maar gelukkig kon ik afgelopen weekend wel weer mee met de WATT, naar Freyr.
Met Pasen was ik dus weer in Freyr te vinden. Deze keer niet in een meerdere touwenlengte of iets, maar in een 7a+. Samen met Eva uitgewerkt, echt supergaaf.
De rots blijft opgezocht worden (zeker met dit heerlijke weer); volgende week met Eva en Ronja naar Berdorf!! :D Kan haast niet wachten....
maandag 31 mei 2010
Freyr
een beetje laat, maar toch.
In het pinksterweekend ging ik samen met mijn broertje en ouders naar Freyr met als doel om lekker te gaan klimmen en te genieten van het (iets te) lekkere weer.
Ik heb daar zeker lekker geklommen, niet zo moeilijk (6a, 6b), maar wel weer helemaal het rotsklimgevoel teruggekregen. Helaas is ook het eelt helemaal weg.
Het genieten van het zonnetje is minder geslaagd. Het was meer genieten van de schaduw; de zon was iets te fel...
Nu maar weer zorgen dat mijn vingers snel weer heel zijn, en hopelijk keren we gauw weer terug naar de rotsen!
In het pinksterweekend ging ik samen met mijn broertje en ouders naar Freyr met als doel om lekker te gaan klimmen en te genieten van het (iets te) lekkere weer.
Ik heb daar zeker lekker geklommen, niet zo moeilijk (6a, 6b), maar wel weer helemaal het rotsklimgevoel teruggekregen. Helaas is ook het eelt helemaal weg.
Het genieten van het zonnetje is minder geslaagd. Het was meer genieten van de schaduw; de zon was iets te fel...
Nu maar weer zorgen dat mijn vingers snel weer heel zijn, en hopelijk keren we gauw weer terug naar de rotsen!
zondag 9 mei 2010
Fontainebleau
Deze week was ik lekker even weg naar Fontainebleau. Eerst een klimkamp, en daarna nog 3 dagen langer met 2 klimmaatjes :)
Vrijdagmorgen om half 9 moesten we verzamelen bij de Uithof. Vanaf daar reden we met heel wat leden van de JGDCLB Den Haag naar Bleau. Veel uren, files en ook gezelligheid later kwamen we na bijna 11 uur rijden aan in Bleau. Daar met het klimkamp heel veel geklommen, lekker gegeten, heel veel lol gemaakt en goed getraind. Daarna bleef ik nog wat langer met Rosa en Tiba (2 klimmaatjes van mij) en hun vader Ben.Ook met hun ha ik veel geklommen, lekker gegeten, heel veel lol gemaakt en ook weer goed getraind.
Gelukkig was de terugreis sneller dan de heenreis:7½ uur met rusten.
Al met al was het een heel gezellige week, waarin ik lekker geklommen heb en weer heel wat meer vertrouwen heb gekregen in mijn voeten en in het in de rots klimmen.
Een week waarin ik lekker veel blauw heb geklommen, en waarin de rode routes telkens net niet lukten. Rood: de uitdaging vor de volgende keer!
Vrijdagmorgen om half 9 moesten we verzamelen bij de Uithof. Vanaf daar reden we met heel wat leden van de JGDCLB Den Haag naar Bleau. Veel uren, files en ook gezelligheid later kwamen we na bijna 11 uur rijden aan in Bleau. Daar met het klimkamp heel veel geklommen, lekker gegeten, heel veel lol gemaakt en goed getraind. Daarna bleef ik nog wat langer met Rosa en Tiba (2 klimmaatjes van mij) en hun vader Ben.Ook met hun ha ik veel geklommen, lekker gegeten, heel veel lol gemaakt en ook weer goed getraind.
Gelukkig was de terugreis sneller dan de heenreis:7½ uur met rusten.
Al met al was het een heel gezellige week, waarin ik lekker geklommen heb en weer heel wat meer vertrouwen heb gekregen in mijn voeten en in het in de rots klimmen.
Een week waarin ik lekker veel blauw heb geklommen, en waarin de rode routes telkens net niet lukten. Rood: de uitdaging vor de volgende keer!
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