NK Lead 2015

Placed 2nd for the nationals comes with expectations. Not only from myself, but also from others. Dutch Climbing site Siked saw me a as the favorite for the 2nd place (reference)and friends also expected something of me... This made me pretty nervous the week before.

On the big day itself I wasn't nervous anymore. The route looked good and I felt strong, not just physisical but even more mentally. After waiting for some time in the isolation it was my time to climb. I didn't wanted to make any mistakes, but already in the very beginning I made a small mistake: I made an a little bit too small jump to the next hold, which almost made me fall. Luckily I recovered and the rest of the route I climbed on a very safe modus. All the holds were better than expected and without having troubles I climbed up to the upper part. Here was a small trick: on the wall was written in small letters "secret hold to the left" and after looking twice I found the secret hold. From on that point it was a small bouldery passage to the top, and with a huge crowd all encouraging me I clipped the topquickdraw!

Yihaa! Nikki topped as well, but faster which makes her Dutch Champion and me a very happy best of the losers :D

In case you missed it: hereby the livestream to look back. My moment is fame starts at 58:53

NJK 2015

Last Sunday the Dutch Youth Lead Championships were held in Rock Steady, Bussum. Because I am getting old, this would be my last youth competition, which I was willing to win!

But without a good warming up you don't get there, so the Friday evening before I started with a 21 hours long adventure race. In a team of 4 we runned, mountainbiked, kanoed, orientated and navigated our way through the surroundings of Wageningen. Despite all the rainfall we arrived Saterday evening at the finish. Tired, but satisfied. And in my case: with my feet hurting like hell. Because of all the rain, my feet were wet all 21 hours long, which resulted in awfully looking and hurting feet.

Trying to keep on smiling in the last hours of the race

Back home I felt like I could sleep for ages (untill a nice person kisses me awake), but luckily I woke up the Sunday morning already. I was impressed by how much better my body felt after just 7 hours of sleep. There wasn't more time to rest, because I had to defend my titel of Dutch Youth Champion!

After arriving in the gym it was time to wait for hours in a crowded and noisy isolation. Not really what you want after a 21 hours adventure race and with a sleepy body I had to climb the semi final. And the climbing went horrible! My feet were shaking the whole time, I didn't looked good at the route so that I clipped the quickdraws at the most energy demanding points and I felt like a potato bag. But even though the climbing went horrible, I was placed 1st for the finals!

Again, it was time to wait for hours. But this time the poffertjes plate was free and there was no one taking care of it. So together with Judith (Meskers) we made some delicious poffertjes. Besides that it was a good dinner, it was also warm and most of all a lot of fun. This made the time flying away and then the moment was there that I had to climb the final route. It wasn't that hard, until a certain point with a module where my hand slipped off. A little bit pissed on myself that I wasn't pumped yet I fell off the route. No reason to be pissed though, I became 1st!

I am now 3 times consecutively DUTCH YOUTH CHAMPION!

Lead 4 - I-VY Sittard

The last qualification round for the nationals was last Sunday, so it is clear now who are going to compete at the national championships.

The last qualification in I-VY was an good one. The routes looked cool and the participant list promised an exciting competition. A good last test for the nationals!

The first qualification was a not so hard route which was topped by almost everyone. The second route was harder, but even this route was topped by 8 participants (including me).

The final route was going straight through the roof, on big holds which looked better than they actually were. I fighted up untill the very last meter, where I didn't knew what to do next and fell off the route. Enough for the second place, which made me placed second for the National Championships, 28 November @ De Klimmuur Centraal Amsterdam :-D Make sure you are there to encourage me :-). Tickets could be bought via the NKBV.

At the end of the day a little girl came to me to ask my signature. Yeahhh I am getting famous :D

Youth lead 3 - Monte Cervino

Already some time ago the youth lead 3 was held in Monte Cervino. Referring to the blogpost before this one about good combinations: the day before the competition Noël and me went to Spaarnwoude to enjoy the beautiful weather and the 'rocks'. In the beginning I had to get used to all the small crimpers and sharp pockets again and struggled in the 6b's. But ones I was used to it the 7c went down almost as easy as the 6a's earlier that day :)

In the evening we drove to Monte Cervino and slept there.

On Sunday it was very crowded around Monte Cervino. Beside the climbing competition there were several other competitions and there was a big outdoor event. The qualification routes weren't that hard and I topped both. Also the final route looked pretty easy, so my goal was to get for today the maximum score of 3 tops. After waiting a long, long time in the isolation, it was time for my 5 minutes of fame. The final routes appeared to be even easier than the second qualification and without any trouble I topped. Yihaa!

Good combinations: Les 12 heures de Durnal & Youth lead 2

Some people know me for doing 'stupid' combinations. For example the National Youth Championships the day after the BOTS (a 21 hours long adventure race). I wouldn't call these combinations stupid, but rather: good working combinations. The hard activity on the first day makes me satisfied and the second day I am tired so that my expectations are low. This results in a competition with a low stress-factor and - as it turns - good results.

Last weekend was again a good example. On Saturday Eli and me accepted the challenge "Les 12 heures de Durnal", in which you have to climb for 12 hours (no shit) and try to make as many attitude meters as possible. Our goal was to make fun and to try to reach the 1000 meters. The first goal was definitely achieved, the second goal just missed by 30 meters.

After the BBQ we went to the climbing gym Yellow Stone in Roosendaal, where Sunday the Youth Lead 2 was hold. After asking if it was allowed to put our tent next to the gym the staff laughed at us and said that it was no problem at all (one of the guys also slept in his van next to the gym). Climbers are great people :-)

Sundaymorning everyone was jealous of us, not having to wake up early and not having to travel to the gym this morning. The qualification routes were looking fun and not too hard and without having too much trouble I topped both. In the afternoon I started to feel the day before and in the isolation I fell asleep. This turned out to be a perfect power nap and the final route went good although I didn't felt that strong. Thirst place!