NJK 2015

Last Sunday the Dutch Youth Lead Championships were held in Rock Steady, Bussum. Because I am getting old, this would be my last youth competition, which I was willing to win!

But without a good warming up you don't get there, so the Friday evening before I started with a 21 hours long adventure race. In a team of 4 we runned, mountainbiked, kanoed, orientated and navigated our way through the surroundings of Wageningen. Despite all the rainfall we arrived Saterday evening at the finish. Tired, but satisfied. And in my case: with my feet hurting like hell. Because of all the rain, my feet were wet all 21 hours long, which resulted in awfully looking and hurting feet.

Trying to keep on smiling in the last hours of the race

Back home I felt like I could sleep for ages (untill a nice person kisses me awake), but luckily I woke up the Sunday morning already. I was impressed by how much better my body felt after just 7 hours of sleep. There wasn't more time to rest, because I had to defend my titel of Dutch Youth Champion!

After arriving in the gym it was time to wait for hours in a crowded and noisy isolation. Not really what you want after a 21 hours adventure race and with a sleepy body I had to climb the semi final. And the climbing went horrible! My feet were shaking the whole time, I didn't looked good at the route so that I clipped the quickdraws at the most energy demanding points and I felt like a potato bag. But even though the climbing went horrible, I was placed 1st for the finals!

Again, it was time to wait for hours. But this time the poffertjes plate was free and there was no one taking care of it. So together with Judith (Meskers) we made some delicious poffertjes. Besides that it was a good dinner, it was also warm and most of all a lot of fun. This made the time flying away and then the moment was there that I had to climb the final route. It wasn't that hard, until a certain point with a module where my hand slipped off. A little bit pissed on myself that I wasn't pumped yet I fell off the route. No reason to be pissed though, I became 1st!

I am now 3 times consecutively DUTCH YOUTH CHAMPION!

Lead 4 - I-VY Sittard

The last qualification round for the nationals was last Sunday, so it is clear now who are going to compete at the national championships.

The last qualification in I-VY was an good one. The routes looked cool and the participant list promised an exciting competition. A good last test for the nationals!

The first qualification was a not so hard route which was topped by almost everyone. The second route was harder, but even this route was topped by 8 participants (including me).

The final route was going straight through the roof, on big holds which looked better than they actually were. I fighted up untill the very last meter, where I didn't knew what to do next and fell off the route. Enough for the second place, which made me placed second for the National Championships, 28 November @ De Klimmuur Centraal Amsterdam :-D Make sure you are there to encourage me :-). Tickets could be bought via the NKBV.

At the end of the day a little girl came to me to ask my signature. Yeahhh I am getting famous :D

Youth lead 3 - Monte Cervino

Already some time ago the youth lead 3 was held in Monte Cervino. Referring to the blogpost before this one about good combinations: the day before the competition Noël and me went to Spaarnwoude to enjoy the beautiful weather and the 'rocks'. In the beginning I had to get used to all the small crimpers and sharp pockets again and struggled in the 6b's. But ones I was used to it the 7c went down almost as easy as the 6a's earlier that day :)

In the evening we drove to Monte Cervino and slept there.

On Sunday it was very crowded around Monte Cervino. Beside the climbing competition there were several other competitions and there was a big outdoor event. The qualification routes weren't that hard and I topped both. Also the final route looked pretty easy, so my goal was to get for today the maximum score of 3 tops. After waiting a long, long time in the isolation, it was time for my 5 minutes of fame. The final routes appeared to be even easier than the second qualification and without any trouble I topped. Yihaa!

Good combinations: Les 12 heures de Durnal & Youth lead 2

Some people know me for doing 'stupid' combinations. For example the National Youth Championships the day after the BOTS (a 21 hours long adventure race). I wouldn't call these combinations stupid, but rather: good working combinations. The hard activity on the first day makes me satisfied and the second day I am tired so that my expectations are low. This results in a competition with a low stress-factor and - as it turns - good results.

Last weekend was again a good example. On Saturday Eli and me accepted the challenge "Les 12 heures de Durnal", in which you have to climb for 12 hours (no shit) and try to make as many attitude meters as possible. Our goal was to make fun and to try to reach the 1000 meters. The first goal was definitely achieved, the second goal just missed by 30 meters.

After the BBQ we went to the climbing gym Yellow Stone in Roosendaal, where Sunday the Youth Lead 2 was hold. After asking if it was allowed to put our tent next to the gym the staff laughed at us and said that it was no problem at all (one of the guys also slept in his van next to the gym). Climbers are great people :-)

Sundaymorning everyone was jealous of us, not having to wake up early and not having to travel to the gym this morning. The qualification routes were looking fun and not too hard and without having too much trouble I topped both. In the afternoon I started to feel the day before and in the isolation I fell asleep. This turned out to be a perfect power nap and the final route went good although I didn't felt that strong. Thirst place!

Lead 3, Monte Cervino Bergschenhoek

Last weekend was the Lead 3 in Monte Cervino, Bergschenhoek. I was looking forward to this competition, not only because I like their routes most times, but even more to see everone again after the summer holiday.

The summer holiday was great. Not many hard routes were done, but the hikes, bouldering, multipitches and just being in the mountains for five weeks made it a perfect holiday. Other good news is that I got my propedeuse, which proves that it is possible to manage training, being a board member and university.

Back to the competition, after arriving in Monte Cervino I felt very excited, happy to see everyone and I was really looking forward to climb. It was a pity when I saw that the first qualification route was not overhanging, with lots of small crimpers. Completely not my style. I tried to think back to some of last summer's multipitches, in which were also many small crimps. I also climbed those, so why not this route? Still not really convinced, but having a bit more trust in myself, I stepped in the route. I was crawling on the wall very slowly, close to falling many times. With only 13 seconds (of 8 minutes) left on the clock I clipped the top quickdraw. Yihea!
The second route was more made for me, cruising through the overhang with positive holds and not too long moves. I fell in the end because I didn't really saw where to go. In the second place I went to the finals.
Ending in a high place after the qualifications always makes me nervous. I want to keep that high place but there is more to loose. This time was no exception. Being nervous makes me look at routes in a way that I only see problems. "Oh Noo! So long moves, I don't know if I can clip the quickdraw from there... What if that hold is bad?" This makes me way less motivated to climb the route. So when I stepped in the route I was scared of falling around the second quickdraw, where was a long move from two underclings to a hold on a module. Arriving at that point I decided that jumping is better that doubting and I suprised myself with a jump. After succesfully passing this point I felt more relaxed and I was way more confident. Climbing and jumping through the route I ended up pumped at the end of the overhanging part. With no more force to hold the grips, I fell. Enough to keep my second place!

I am very happy that it was possible to change my static climbing style into a more dynamic style and I am very psyched to get even more dynamic, faster and stronger :D

Training modus is on for the NK!