As I looked up to the rock, I saw the shadow slowly making place for sun. 15 minutes, max 20 untill the small crack named Glühfinger would be in the unforgiving warm sun. My complete body felt tired from the attempt just a minute ago, in which I fell frustratingly close to the handjam marking the end of the difficulties in the fingercrack. 10 minutes rest, and then a last try for this day.
The route starts with a boulder problem on an arrete, then continues right in a vertical tiny crack, starting too small even for me to get my fingers in. Some powerful moves lead to a good rest, from where the crack gets perfect finger size, but soon becomes slighty too big for fingers. Suddenly then the crack breaks up, a handjam is possible, followed by a diagonal finger crack leading to the top anker.
I'd been trying this route since May, not being able to give it many attempts due to hot days or blooding fingers. I decided to wait for colder temperatures, and now, on a saturday morning late September, conditions were just perfect. It was crisp, cold and the basalt had the friction of granite. My skin felt good, muscles felt good and the holds felt somehow bigger than before. The first attempt was good, but with my mind already topping out the route, I fell and got to do the route second time.
This time the body felt tired and shaky, but my mind was keeping me on the wall. Torquing my fingers and feet as much as possible in the tiny crack to get most friction out, I slowly progressed to the top. The last meter the sun welcomed me and with a big smile I topped the route!
Photos by Michal and Britta.
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